生命中，有一些柔情深藏不泯，有一些惊喜失而复得。

今夜Menu很简单：柚子海鲜沙拉+澳洲Jacorb’s Merlot 2005。我当然很请楚今夜要配Merlot,才够甜够温暖。我喝我爱的wine，你喝你的无酒精鸡尾酒杯椰子甜品。我讨厌鸡尾酒杯，因为我不喜欢勾兑。我要的纯粹，你给不得起吧。

你不喝酒，是因为怕酒后再失身于我么？这状况分明又引得眼梢细长的上海土产Waitress柔媚笑笑。嗳昧得体得很呐，嗲是嗲得来~  这款Merlot，个么我挑的酒嘛：单宁紧实，层次分明，甜润宜人。又是中段饱满，辛香的收尾干静利落，回味久。

我知道不会有差，因为你虽不喝，闻着却也喜欢，这就好。

FCC藏在我真的不熟悉的巨鹿路里面呐，虽然离酒店近。料想这栋宅子前生也是个殇情的少妇吧，年纪轻轻便养在金屋毫宅，再没见过阳光。青黛珠玉，钗粉胭脂。妆容虽妥贴，但那个他却又择了新欢，不予理睬了。于是美人独自静谧于此，愁月清宵饮酒，青纱帐幔为伴。或许是因了这缘由，这生就是作为补偿，再登台时也须配全了清朗俊秀的月半湾，柔软的目光，以及真的很柔软胶着的心情。

那时的那时，你说：不再见面了，所以今晚牵你的手吧？你还打趣的说：你真的很好骗呀。亲爱的，你不知道，若无所求，便无所谓骗与不骗，输与不输。青青脆竹，皆是吾身，郁郁黄花，无非般若。

那时的那时你不喝酒，却若无其事的，只让我桃红粉黛般娇俏的任性放纵着。歌者歌也，舞者舞也。若干年后，除了日出日落，草枯草绿，我们还剩什么，我们还值什么？还有什么可期待的？

我喜欢一切完美的结局。所以亲爱的，你放心：即使爱琴海枯竭，我也不忍心，用你的泪来

填满

1. Delamotte NV Brut, 50% CH, 30% PN, 20% PM
very pinot predominanted nose, round rich and fresh, some smoky, mineral notes plus leathery complexity up tone, mineral finish is long and fine, 8+/10

2. Delamotte Blanc de Blanc Brut NV
very flinty and very long mineral flavor maintaining good richness on palate, full bodied, creamy texture,long finish.  this is a bubbly Blanchot. 9/10

3. Delamotte Blanc de Blanc 1999 Brut
a flingty, creamy plus slightly leathery nose, super rich, full, tropical fruit and caramel-like mid palate, toasty, dry apple tart finish. 9/10

4. Delamotte Rose Brut NV, 80% PN, 20% CH, cofermentated and saignee
pale salmon color, many red fruits spicy smoky and mineral, candy fruit on palate, long mouthfilling finish full bodied. 9/10

5. Champagne Salon 1996
straw to pale gold with green hue, matured nose and depth show the future development, natty ,buttery, dry apple and white truffle on the nose,  so complex, i can even detect some white peeper on the edge, creamy balanced palate, acidity is so high and so fine and so lingering long complex mineral leathery finish, with superb delicate acidity.  The best vintage of last 25 years could easily become a century's classic.  10/10

1. Duval Leroy, Fleur de Champagne Brut NV, 75% PN, 25% CH
pale color, fine bubbles, very floral as it says on the label, crisp, fresh, some dosage at the finish and yeasty nose.  high acidity, li-mid bodied, mid length. some apple and bitterness at the end. a sort of simple but light and fine for aperitif.

2. Duval Leroy Paris Brut NV, 60% PN, 40% CH
pale color, yellow green to watery, more driness, yeasty bready notes

3. Duval Leroy Clos de Bouvree Brut, 2002
mid size bubbles, a lot of finess on the nose, pear and apple, mousseu soft mid palate, fine, mid length, good purity

4. Duval Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV
Pale peony color, subtle nose of some pear and strawberry, offering many strawberry flavor on the palate, long, refreshing a sort of simple and straight forward but really appealing. some spicy notes dosage need to be intergraded.

5. Femme 1996, 50cl bottling Brut, 79% CH, 21% PN
creamy toasty nutty, fully ripe apple, and caramel, some fresh tobacco-like spiciness.  very rich palate, moderate to high acidity, long lasting fruit flavor, mid bodied, creamy texture and good refreshment.

                                                                      ----------此文刊于2008年6月《餐饮世界》

已婚之兄弟们，你有多少个妻子（但愿答案只是一个）？你爱不爱你唯一的妻子（皆因儿女可超过一位）？日本的Panasonic乐声牌家电厂多年前出了一台名为“爱妻号”的洗衣机，以此作鼓励爱妻担起这份日以继夜的家务重担，真亏生产商能想到这样的鬼主意！那么，你用什么来向妻子表达对她的爱意？
但在你还未说出答案之先，笔者很想把一位“有情有义”的法国酒庄主人Philipde Haseth-Moeller梅勒先生，最终于2003年透过著名酿酒顾问Stephane Derenoncourt德朗科先生与土壤专家Claude Bourguignon鲍顾昂先生的得意之作呈献给读者们，好让大家感受一下何谓“人间有情”，还有“情是何物”？

梅勒先生在1998年买下了Chateau Monestier La Tour蒙纳斯蒂拉图酒庄，然后大肆整顿，务求把庄园内外强化粉饰，打造出一所美伦美奂的天地，让梅太太EMILY能赏心悦目地居住其中，作梅先生这位“成功男人背后的女人”！还不止于此，梅先生还把2003年的得意之作以爱妻EMILY艾美丽名字来推出这瓶超水准佳酿，这么的“好男人”往哪里找呢？当然，除了法国之外，到处皆有好男人，譬如是香港。。。，看女孩子是能否遇上和抓紧！
 

Cotes de Bergerac（贝爵克山麓）位于波尔多右岸Saint-Emilion圣达米昂以东，这产区之红酒相比波尔多各类餐酒言，一向是以价廉物美著称，只是对葡萄酒爱好者来说而言，酒体略为单薄而收结总是带点酸味，更谈不上可与波尔多木味浓烈的红酒一较高下。然而法国酒庄主人Philipde Haseth-Moeller在1998年买下了Chateau Monestier La Tour蒙纳斯蒂拉图酒庄，大肆整顿后，于2003年极和暖的天气下酿出一款美酒。深情的庄主以爱妻EMILY艾美丽的名字为这款佳酿命名——Chateau Monestier La Tour EMILY 2003。

     Chateau Monestier La Tour蒙纳斯蒂拉图酒庄

    深情的Philipde Haseth-Moeller

近来EMILY 2003获奖无数，计有英国Decanter World Wine Award 2006和Selection Mondiates des Vins in Montral国际酒展金奖等等，除了庄主的努力，著名酿酒顾问Stephane Derenoncourt与土壤专家Claude Bourguignon的专业意见也是关键。

著名酿酒顾问Stephane Derenoncourt目前被波尔多酿酒界公认为“明日之星”，其声名有直逼酿酒魔术师Michel Roland米雪罗伦先生之势。德朗科先生来自波尔多右岸，对酿造Merlot梅乐葡萄酒很有心得，往往能在差劲的环境与恶劣的天气下仍造出不错的葡萄酒。他自己也拥有一家酒庄叫Domaine d’La A。他亦曾替多家波尔多名庄当上酿酒顾问，诸如Chateau La Mondotte, Cannon La Gaffelier等等。

在Chateau Monestier La Tour蒙纳斯蒂拉图酒庄内，德朗科先生采用类似生物动力的种植方法，保持生态均衡健康，让葡萄自然成长。接下来，他安排在接近晚采的时段以人手采择葡萄，透过Claude Bourguignon的细致土壤分析，选择最合适的品种，然后进行长时间但柔和的发酵，酿造出这瓶色泽深浓和果味强劲圆润的EMILY 2003经典好酒。

而土壤专家Claude Bourguignon鲍顾昂先生也是名不虚传，他在过去的二十年是勃根地酒后产区Romanee-Conti罗马尼康蒂的土壤专家。

那么，EMILY 2003的内部结构是什么样呢？她的葡萄成分比例是Merlot梅乐70%，Cabernet Franc品丽珠25%和Malbec玛璧5%（非常典型右岸的组合），平均从四十年树种植出来的葡萄。酿出来的酒液存放在新法国橡木桶酝酿十八个月，灌瓶前不经过滤和沉淀，务求能把墨汁般的果香浓液保存下来。此酒预计能陈年多十年左右。

笔者对这款美酒的评价是：深紫颜色，密不见底；黑皮水果，熟味浓鼻；成熟蓝莓，充满味蕾；单宁圆润，幼滑如丝；酒体丰满，结构紧密；不酸稍甜，容易入喉；收结和谐，后味悠长。

Date: Sept 20th, 2006

1. Vina Sol 2005, 100% Parellada
pale straw, aromatic, floral, white rose peachy apricoty nose. refreshing palate, straight forward, fruity attack, pure citrusy finish.

2. Vina Esmeralda 2005, 85% Muscat, 15% Gewurztraminer
pale gold, aromatic, floral grapy nose, round, touch of sweetness, off-dry (RS: 5g/L), spicy edge.

3. Fransola 2005, 95% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Parellada
pale straw, refreshing herb grassy, gooseberry, green figs. delicate oak, fruity attack oaky toasty finish

4. Sangre de Toro 2004, 65% Garnacha, 35% Carinena, 9 monthes in oak
purple, cassis, prune, slightly rose patel, plumy on palate, black fruit flavor firmed tannin, fruity finish

5. Coronas 2004, 85% Tempranillo, 15% Cab-Sauv
refreshing red fruit, red currant, cherry. also refreshing red fruit attack, black fruit finish, firmed tannin.

6. Nerola Syrah 2004, 80% Syrah, 20% Monastrell
pure syrah nose, black berry, plum and black pepper, also presenting earthy leafy notes. juicy fruity, good purity, fine and velvety tannin. mid length

7. Grand Coronas 2002, 85% Cab-Sauv 15% Tempranillo
bright ruby purple, minty herbecous, oak white pepper, a little tobacco, supple velvety mid bodied juicy fruity finish

8. Mas La Plana 2002, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
pronoucing oak first, then tobacco, pepper, black currant, mid-full bodied, fine and firmed tannin, classic and pure finish.

9. Gran Vina Sol 2005, 85% Chardonnay 15% Parellada
pale gold, jammy pear chinese orange, vanilla, creamy yet maintaining good acidity, fine citrus finish with some minerality

10. Atrium 2004, 100% Merlot
inky black fruit, prune, oaky vanilla and smoke, rich, mid-full, good balanced acidity, oaky finish

11. Reserva Real 2000
Cassis, mocha, a lot of black fruit, concentrated nose. berbal spicy and firmed tannin, mid-full bodied or maybe call it fullish. fine black fruit finish.  present the effort of concentration!