2008年9月

kevin编译

    由于霜冻以及葡萄坐果差等不利因素影响,08年波尔多白葡萄的产量较07年下降大约40%,为此波尔多酒商呼吁有必要尽快引入类似于香槟的储备制度。

    08年白葡萄的低产量可能导致价格提高。部分酿酒商担心他们会重蹈1991年的覆辙,当年由于白葡萄酒产量低提高了价格,因此也失去了市场占有率,直到今天都还没有恢复过来。何况今时今日还要面对咄咄逼人的新世界酒商的竞争。

    鉴于此,酒商们呼吁相应的储备制度应尽快出台。那样的话,酒商们每年可以储备一定数量的白葡萄酒用于低产量年份,起到平衡供需的作用。

    目前,波尔多的酿酒商可以在当年葡萄酒中加入15%以前年份的葡萄酒,只要他们提供以前年份葡萄酒的日期、年份、数量等相应的记录,不过官方没有系统的葡萄酒储备制度。

意大利的一支不错,一会儿下去看。海牙认真地作答之间,Sophie老师飞了过来,也是一支香槟Taittinger,今天Fond网有头有脸的人到了不少。拿着香槟、脸上已经微微泛红的老吴的到来,也提醒我们桃红Taittinger是不是冰好了?

比Brut Reserve N/V多了Pinot Noir的Prestige Rose Brut N/V的确更加酸度平衡,入口细腻。Chardonnay加上黑比诺极具浪漫的色彩,红色浆果的芬芳和层次的质感,此款Rose被WS在06年打过90分。据说六七十年代的老版007电影Bond先生就是用Taittinger Brut Reserve迷倒了不少苏联燕子女特工。当然,现在007口味更换地引导潮流,改喝右岸的金钟了。

>

短暂的放松后,还是要抓紧时间Taste of Nations。走下舷梯,二楼还是不少人。走过Torres展台,视大名鼎鼎的“黑牌”Mas La Plana 2004而不见,真是辜负了M.Torres先生当年在巴黎打败Ch. Latour的勇气与苦心。

海牙带着我们来到Tenuta Sette Ponti七桥酒庄的帅哥面前,他确认Orma 2005 Tuscany IGT很不错。

>

意大利帅哥很高兴,立马现打开一瓶。脸色已经桃红的老吴也说好,不忘加一句,IGT有好酒!但一旁有人还是说,虽然酒融合颇佳,可酒精上鼻厉害了一点,帅哥回答现场温度太高了。

作为相对年轻的酒庄,Tenuta Sette Ponti是上世纪50年代Moretti家族购买了50公顷Chianti中心区域土地而建立。Florence有很多座桥,七桥中的第一桥就是名画“蒙娜丽莎”身后背景的那座桥。Orma也许并不神秘,但已经足够优雅。

>

海牙老弟不过并没有就此打住,一旁的来自南澳Barossa的Peter Lehmann把他吸引过去了。

不管怎样一船的男女是不会放过这畅饮机会,反正至少Champagne两杯下肚就当好比身在酒吧把门票喝回来了。浪似乎更大了,船和人都在晃。今天约定的3小时不知已经过了多少时间,船怎么好像也没有开?

Flight 1: Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet Vertical

1. 1986, 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet
matured nutty chocolatey nose with complex leather, earth, port-like notes and a touch of mint. still lively and juicy, soft palate and tannin, refreshing mouth watering finish, relatively long but the structure is fading out.

2. 1991, 53% Shiraz, 47% Cabernet
earthy spicy and tobacco, Cabernet predominant. elegant and fully matured nose. earthy palate, firmed structure, fine and chocolatey finish. 

3. 1998, 51% Shiraz. 48% Cabernet
ripe, extrotic, port-like black fruit and dry fruit. full inttese chocolatey flavor, long finish, balanced acidity and concentration

4. 2004, 62% Shiraz, 38% Cabernet
rich, red fruit and milk chocolate, more vegetal refreshing, mild long finish, concentrated structure.

5. 2006, 80% Shiraz, 20% Cabernet
deep nose, vegetal, cherry fresh black fruit, slightly harsh and vegetal, mouthfilling, youthful.

6. Seventy Six, 2006, 70% Shiraz, 30% Cabernet
30 anniversary edition, an upgrade version of standard Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet. heavier and bigger wine.  indense herb, plum cherry and cassis, spicy nose, slightly touch of  American Oak, pure fruit with a hint of earthy spicy notes at the edge

Flight 2: Penfolds Grange
Grange is always consistant on its concentrated style with huge structure, it's always ageworthy, not recommended to open within 20 years

1.1983, 94% Shiraz 6% Cabernet
This full, hearty wine can offer great complexity and maturity, concentrated flack berry, plum, black olive, black tea, spicy oaky vanilla. earthy, firmed and powerful palate, full bodied, long finish with slightly hot alcohol, tannin is very tight seems non-softened but fine and ripe.  83 is listed in top 10 tannic vintage of Grange.

2. 1991,
deep closd, oaky chocolate. deep palate, big tannin and acidity, closed and long ripe finish, need decades to develop and open up

3. 1998
ripe, full and concentrated. complex heady nose, full of jammy fruit, plum olive and some leathery notes.  super rich super concentration, long lingering jammy finish, velvety texture

4. 1999, 100% Shiraz
this vintage is more smoky, many red fruit nose, raspberry cherry and also red flavor uptone, long balanced, less concentration than 98, long finish. 

5. 2003
fruity and violety, rich ripe fruit with frefreshing acidity. tight and firmed structure, long classic grange.

祖籍德国的Glaetzer家族自从1888年踏上南澳Barossa的土地后就开始了他们与葡萄的不解之缘. 相信风土人情(terroir)以及传统的无灌溉(dry-grown)种植表示了Glaetzer家族的酿酒哲学起源于他们精心挑选以及呵护的葡萄园.

自创品牌Glaetzer融合了老Colin在酒业中三十年积累的热情和经验, 虽然是个年轻品牌, 但是旗下四个酒品毫无疑问地都是各自风格的经典演示. 另外位于BarossaGlaetzer酒厂负责为140多个不同客户酿制不同风格的酒, 年压榨10,000顿以上.

HeartlandGlaetzer家族年轻代酿酒师,Colin的儿子Ben Glaetzer与同另外三位业界朋友共同创立的品牌,定位于南澳的limestone coastLanghorne creek. 2004, 26岁的Ben已经获得Qantas 年度青年酿酒师的殊荣. 他独自操刀掌运的Heartland酿造传统与现代相结合的风格酒品. 另外, 他也是另一个实力品牌的酿酒师兼顾问Mitolo

部分今年releasetasting notes:

Heartland Viognier Pinot Gris 2007

-68% Vio, 32% P/G

-83% Langhorne Creek, 17% Limestone Coast

TN: Peach, stone fruit, dried apricot, forward nose; smell some alcohol

Super tight palate attributes to the tart acid at this stage, shows some structure, mineral and fruit intensity but with a disappointing alcohol touch at finish;

Heartland Dolcetto & Lagrein 2007

-50:50 blend

-90% Langhorne Creek, 10% Limestone Coast

TN: a unique blend. Sweet red cheery and spice from Dolcetto with more “dark” characters like chocolate, coffee bean, earth from Lagrein.

The palate is balanced with fine supple tannin and soft acid

Heartland Shiraz 2006

-67% Langhorne Creek, 33% Limestone Coast

TN: more plumy, blackcurrant-like notes than its counterparts in Barossa or McLaren Vale, some menthol and spice on nose.

Again the palate is refined and supple but less impactive

Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

-90% Cab, 10% Shiraz

-94% Langhorne Creek, 6% Limestone Coast

TN: lifted and forward nose due to the fairly warm vintage, approachable now with limited ageing

Wallence 2006

-Variety:  70% Shiraz , 30% Grenache
-Region:  100% Barossa Valley ( Northern Ebenezer region)

TN: fleshy richness dominates the mid-palate by Shiraz , sweet cherry toffee slightly savoury from Grenache, layers of flavour, balanced and long.

Heartland Directors’ Cut Shiraz 2007

-89% Langhorne Creek, 11% Limestone Coast

TN: A structurally big wine, fine grained firm tannins provide a solid frame while vibrant acid keeps it fresh. Refined nose with lashings of cassis and spiced plum. Stands out in the range.

Bishop Shiraz 2006

-Variety:  100% Shiraz

-Region: 100% Barossa Valley ( Northern Ebenezer region),

TN: Blueberried syrup of plum blackcurrant blackberry, a big berry bam on palate benefits from good old vine concentration. The palate is so supple and balanced with some bottle development (leather, mocha, liquorices) adding to more complexity.

Anaperenna Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (formerly called Godolphin)

-Variety:   75% Dry-grown Barossa Valley 85 year-old Shiraz vines

25% Dry grown Barossa Valley 60 year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines
-Region:   100% Barossa Valley ( Northern Ebenezer region)

TN: The two varietal intermingling so well on the nose with full of cedar, chocolate, crushed herbs, blackberries. Arguably a more refined and elegant “Barossa-style” and pre-eminent Aussie Shiraz Cab blend.

The palate is tightly-focused and thanks to the management of phenolics and oak, tannins are evenly spread throughout the palate. Easily ageing for the next 10-15 years.

Glaetzer相关网站

Heartland相关网站

在这个美丽的十月,西班牙的国庆节也即将到来。让我们一起品饮西班牙葡萄酒和著名的Cava,来庆祝这个异国的节日吧!

品尝会中,您将有机会了解西班牙葡萄酒的有关知识。

还需要等待么,赶快发邮件或打电话跟我们联系吧!

Email:shmarketing@force8wines.com

Tel:021-6267 9209

活动时间:10月9日,晚6:30-9:30

活动地点:上海市茂名北路65号1号楼206室

活动费用:150元/人