2009年3月

单一年份的Port

带了年份的Port价格一般都开始上扬了,尤其是vintage,一般都在100欧以上,市面上贵的可以买到的大概在5000欧左右。

Vintage:vintage应该是Port里面的顶级酒了,vintage的几个简单的定义是,单一年份的收获的葡萄的酿造,存在大木桶2年之后即装瓶。和上一篇说的一样,所有的步骤,都由IVDP来控制,他们派出的人员确定了这一年份在你的酒庄是vintage年,之后酿造出来的酒也符合vintage的品质要求,那么你就可以declare你的酒庄这一年的vintage。每十年,能有vintage的年份通常只有2-3次。也有时候有的酒庄,例如,cockburns,1977年,这个年份是douro河谷非常好的年份,而且很多酒庄出了vintage,于是老板决定不出vintage,就是不对外declare 这个年份的vintage,而是标记为内部消费的,reserve Vintage,意味着永远不能在市场上私人或者公开的销售,而今,剩下的每一瓶都相当是黄金….但是不能出售的黄金.有人会问,那我偷偷的卖不就行了吗?反正别人也不知道…事实告诉我们这样不行,因为IVDP每个月都会来统计,从你装瓶开始,有多少瓶,往哪销售,剩下多少瓶,往哪出口,全程都有记录,这就是这边法规严谨的地方。

由于vintage只在木桶内存两年,之后不过滤马上装瓶,所以不接触光线和空气下慢慢ageing,

由于vintage是适合长期ageing的,所以,葡萄牙的传统是,在结婚或者孩子出生的时候,会收到一瓶好的vintage或者买一瓶,一直存着,等孩子结婚或者有重大事件的时候喝,很像国内黄酒的状元红,女儿红。而因为在瓶内存了多年之后,开瓶之后必须要用decanter,而酒本身有一种很深的紫色,很复杂的花,水果的香味。

根据葡萄的来源,有单一quinta的vintage,和单一葡萄园的vintage。例如Quinta do noval的Quinta do noval vintage nacional ,就是单一葡萄园的vintage。

这一瓶是客户送来检验真假的,他在wineshop买的,价值5000欧元

LBV-Later bottled Vintage:相对vintage来说,LBV要便宜很多很多,LBV的简单定义,首先也是单一年份的葡萄酿造,但是相比vintage,LBV会在木桶内age 4-6年,只在出售前装瓶,由于和木桶和氧气的接触多于vintage,相对的来说,有着饱满的单宁,紧凑的颜色,在port中依然显得年轻,之后会有一些因为氧化而产生的aroma,类似almond的味道。

LBV也是适合立即饮用的,但是LBV有些酒庄也出产LBV unfiltered,那么代表在瓶内依然会继续ageing。

Colheita: 同样是单一年份葡萄酿造,不经blending,colheita一般最少会在木桶内存7年以上,金色,有很柔软的,复杂的口感,而且也只在准备出售前装瓶。所以例如1974年的Colheita,2009年准备投入市场,代表着,酒在木桶内age了30多年的时间。同时,如果在7年内或者7年以后,winemaker发现酒不适合继续age,那么colheita会回头用于tawny的调配中去。

Reserve:和undated的port一样,vintage也会出Reserve。

 

下一篇给大家介绍port酒酿造的葡萄品种。

第一次喝到水晶香槟Cristal 97年份是在La Fleur俱乐部,记得当时Wallis拿着沉甸甸的金黄盒子来到新天地的Pizza Marzano二楼,David和我都惊喜地看着金黄盒子被小心地打开后,用金色玻璃纸包裹得里三层外三层的Cristal香槟终于展现在我们面前了。“这可是沙皇的御用香槟啊!”刚路过的新天地VIN专卖店零售6000元人民币的价格,让我们对它已经望而却步了。当天的品酒,因为主题是Paul Jaboulet的La Chapelle红酒垂直年份品尝,此香槟却颇有“喧宾夺主”的气势,Wallis还特地带来了家中的Scott的香槟杯。如今想起来,当天的Cristal 97让我比较失望,也许是因为serve时候的温度不够低,反正我觉得它的口味没有突出、让人过口不忘的大牌风范。

时隔不到一年,我再次遇到这款97年份的Cristal香槟。然而昨晚Bong的那句“没什么好的,就是包装比较吸引人”的评价倒是说出了我一直不敢说出的话。但无论如何,开Cristal的年份香槟绝非普通场合,没有气度的人是不会轻易拿出家中的水晶香槟开的,何况这还是瓶婚庆酒呢!

的确,正如国际上的品酒辞所言,这款香槟有比较明显的citrus(柑橘)的香气。我个人的体会:它喝在口中清新爽利,丝毫没有大牌酒的架子;Nuts和矿物的气息也开始逐步弥散开,甚至混合些木桶的香气。应该是Chardonnay主导的葡萄品种,却没有高调的酸度,柔美而清丽可人,仿佛15、6岁的邻家小妹,不是电视上穿着Prada的大牌女星,这似乎和“沙皇御用”的皇室贵族气质的定位似乎有所脱节,“期望越大,失望也越大”,也许这就是这款香槟败笔的关键原因吧。

服务生第二次给我倒的香槟有6分满,温度也降下来了,喝在口中的口感有了进一步的认识,我开始体会到了它的真正内涵:细腻。只有不温不火的女人才能做到细致入微,也许香槟也是如此吧。Cristal香槟是款不错的香槟,它的酸度柔和,酒体中等,泡沫细腻,口感清新;可中国人却宁愿偏好Dom Perignon的饱满大气,Bollinger的深沉厚实,Pierre Gimonet的清冽冷艳。说到底,这是一个崇尚个性和激情的年代,Crital也许更适合功成名就后退隐山林的宁静致远呢?

**

昨晚同时开启的一瓶用100% Cabernet Franc酿成的Inniskillin冰酒给了晚宴一个很好的尾声。Bong带来的这款全世界最流行的加拿大冰酒有股蜂蜜、山楂和扑鼻的花香,让身边的Jeremy喝后蜜语不断,甜到Bong心里了。

If I mention a few numerals to readers in China, Hong Kong and Macau, say 18, 12, 20, 0 & 7, they will immediately think of buying some lucky draw tickets, like the Mark Six in Hong Kong.  And if tourists staying in Macau get these numbers in mind, they might put some bets in casinos to see if miracle comes true or not.

Gambling not just needs money but also courage and time, etc.  The process of which might be excited prior to winning or losing.  However, I am sure that, as far as enjoyment is concerned, tasting a bottle or more of wonderful wine must be more enjoyable since we need not care about the result so much.  And tasting the MGM GRAND Macau Grand Opening Memorial Wine 1812, in addition with Vinhas Velhas 2006 White wine & FLP 2005 Red wine which were all produced by Mr Luis Pato in Portugal, was even one of the wonderful tasting occasions in my life.

I was invited to be an honorable guest attending the Luis Pato MGM GRAND Macau 1812 wine dinner event on 16 March 2009 (again here are some more new lucky numbers).  The event was hosted by the hotel with the honorable attendance by Mr Luis Pato (the wine maker) and a number of famous wine critics, gastrologists & journalists.  Needless to say, the concierge service was excellent that night long.  The dishes as cooked under the leadership of the chef de cuisine of Rossio “Chad Ryan Ogden” were very delicious.  And most outstanding were the wines as presented by Mr Luis Pato himself.

Mr Luis Pato quitted his career as engineer and founded his own winery in Portugal in 1980.  Since then he was recognized as one of the best wine makers in Portugal after the presentation of his prestige wines.  He looks like an European royal family member, keeping his patience in a gentle manner while explaining every single detail of his current wine collection to me.

With the passion and knowledgeable traditional wine-making technique, Mr Pato took up the mission of blending a unique variety of Touriga Nacional & Baga red grapes plus a small portion of Bical white grapes (all grown in the Bairrada region), making a remarkable tasty wine named “1812” to celebrate the grand opening of MGM GRAND Macau on 18 December 2007.

Touriga Nacional & Baga used for making this 1812 memorial edition wine are the most well-known red grapes in the said region.  They usually release rich and fruity flavor and with the accentuation of Bical white grapes, subtle aroma of cherries & violet can be smelled.  And the hue indicates dark red jewel tone with high intensity.  The wine was aged in French barrel for almost 18 months, resulting in a body with powerful complexity & rich texture on the palate.  Its nose was full of straw berries & vanilla sauce and the tannin was firm but balance.  Sweetness & acidity were quite balance and the dryness, spiciness & bitterness were not obvious.  The after taste was not quite warm but lengthy with a touch of liquorice.  Overall, this wine perfectly matched with the main course of Cabrito Assado (a roasted baby goat with brussel sprouts, carrots & roasted potatoes braised in mustard).

Mr Pato mentioned that he had supplied 1,100 liters of this wine to the hotel which was bottled in three capacity packs, namely the traditional 750ml, the magnum 1500ml & double magnum 3000ml.  With such limited supply and simple but elegant wine label design (the golden numerals on black indicate the majestic sign of MGM), I had an impression that this wine would only be granted to VIP guests as a free gift, considering its uncountable value.  The charge of this wine per bottle of 750ml in the current campaign would be below a thousand Macau dollar.  I found this price very reasonable, thinking of the infinite contribution from Mr Pato and the great efforts & resources from MGM GRAND Macau.

By the way, the Vinhas Velhas 2006 White was interesting, it not only matched well with the entrée called Salada de bacalhau e tomate e salada de polvo e choco (tomato bacalhau & grilled octopus with cuttle fish salads), but also performed as well as an entry-level Puligny-Montrachet.  I was so surprised that, with four-month barrel storage, this wine tasted almost like an Italian Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva 2005 (as stored in barrel for eight months).  This experience had changed my mind about the simple concept of “Green wine for the ladies only”.  Portuguese white can also be so rich and intense!

Furthermore, Luis Pato FLP 2005 Red was also very elegant when I tasted it with the dessert called Doce Combinacao (sweet combination of egg pudding, coconut crème brulee & baked dark chocolate cake).  This wine acted like a charming woman at the end of the ceremony.

I must admit that, the wine cellar in the VIP dining room of the venue carries a great variety of fine wines from all over the world.  This is probably the largest fine wine cellar in Macau after the one at Don Alffonso, an Italian restaurant at the 3rd floor of Grand Lisboa Hotel.

What makes me thinking of visiting Macau again?  Simply the Luis Pato wine collection (making that night so Harmonious & Elegant) and other best-value-for-money wines from all over the world at the MGM GRAND Macau!  Cheers!

_______________________________________________________________________________________

Wine Critic & Columnist in China (HK citizen): Kenneth Lo (KEN)  25 March 2009

BACKGROUND OF KEN:

The writer is a wine lover born in Hong Kong who seriously started to taste wine since 1996.  Beginning to write wine articles in China since March 2006 for well-known websites called Wines-Info, Winefond, etc. and recognized Food & Wine Magazines like Fine Wine & Liquor Shenzhen, Wine Lifestyle Guangzhou, World Cuisine Shenzhen, Vino Vouge Beijing, etc.  The number of published articles has been over 150.  Currently importing & distributing Italian & other fine wines in Hong Kong & China.  Acting as the Council Member of the GHM Wine Union in Guangdong Province.  Aiming at letting wine lovers know the concept of THE WINE WORLD IS UNLIMITED. 

 

干燥会导致葡萄酒的过度氧化,酒体过早衰老;而湿度过大则会造成酒头的霉变!

尤其是保存有纪念价值或有商业价值的酒友或酒商,一定要重视:

储酒不当,血本无归!

葡萄酒专业储存顾问: 老孙 13701027216

北京香山酒窖体验中心       010-82592288

北京延庆精品葡萄酒庄体验中心     筹建中,敬请阁下预约品鉴!

    渡边淳一原作小说《失乐园》拍成电影后,引起了业界内外的强烈反响和争议,电影除了对人性本质的彻底暴露外,更挑战了人类的“性”底线。在电影的末尾出现过一款酒,它就是波尔多“八大”酒庄中的Chateau Margaux(1984年份)。

    尽管电影是以悲剧结局,但以典雅、优美著称的Margaux(玛歌)的出现,却有如一颗在寂寥夜空中划过的流星——映衬出两位主人公那转瞬即逝的绚烂感情。

 

影片酒评:最易饮的顶级红酒

    影片中出现的1984年Margaux只得了Parker 87分的评价,但当年的它已经是所有葡萄酒中最好的了,因为1984是一个差年,要酿造出好的酒极难。

    1984的玛歌保持着一贯“易饮、易明、易接受”的风格。现在来看,1984年的玛歌早已经过了适饮期,国外市场价接近3000元/瓶。

 

酒庄简评:法国国宴酒,曾请胡锦涛品尝

    Margaux庄园位于波尔多Medoc(美度)地区的Margaux村内,由于它的特点是“女性化”——高贵、优雅,碰上好年份更带有紫罗兰的花香,所以Margaux常常被喻为“红酒中的女皇”。

    据说,玛歌是法国国宴指定的酒。早年胡锦涛书记仍是国家副主席时,曾到法国波尔多区作亲善访问,期间就有参观玛歌酒庄,当时酒庄就开了一瓶1982年的Margaux给胡主席品尝。

 

《峻少品酒笔记》:1995 Margaux

R.P(Parker评分简称):95

售价:目前国内市场售价应在8000元/瓶

    1995年的玛歌属于该酒庄众多年份中的上品,印象中95 Margaux香气四射、非常吸引,单宁柔顺、细致、高贵,有种丝绒的感觉。酒体丰满,结构紧密,层次复杂,余味悠长。独特而娇媚的香气,令人流连忘返!

    1995玛歌宛若一位高贵气质的美女。由于口感滑净,你会觉得她很容易接近,不觉间已被她的美貌和气质所征服。

    一众酒友品尝了足足3个小时,但它丝毫没有走下坡路的意思,阴柔中隐藏的力量显示她有足够的单宁,陈年20年也并非难事。(峻少)