2009年6月

**此文曾邗载于深圳酒典2009年5月市场营销栏目内**

2009年往后之中国葡萄酒市场发展:进口酒百花齐放

如果你早在2000年初开始带进口葡萄酒登录中国,那你肯定要亏本损手离场,纵使你在2003年沙士事故后才进国内销售进口葡萄酒,你的结局还是一样。

那么,假如你在去年才进来又怎么样呢?如果你一直拥有充裕资金与懂市场的专业人才,加上你有很好的酒网平台和博大的人墨关系,性价比好的货色及有影响效力的媒体传播,那么,你在努力不懈的情况下还有机会“得见艳阳天”的。2009年下半年起中国将会是进口葡萄酒的世界。此话何解?且听听本人在这篇文章里解说一下吧。

进口葡萄酒的优势不在于国内任何政策上之优惠(每瓶酒还是要按几近进口价的50%课税,在某些情况下还更甚),只是“时机”所言而已。君不记得去年“三鹿”奶粉等国内质控问题吗?国产葡萄酒(不限于几个大品牌)原来一直霸占大众化的低端市场,自去年那宗骇人事件之后,一般消费者都开始意识到“还是低价位的进口酒比较保险一点”。加上外地葡萄酒的文化推广,中高端的消费者已屏弃一些价高的国产酒而转为品鉴同价进口酒。说实话,众多几百元一瓶的进口酒(不管是来自法国还是意大利等等)确实能找到不少好酒,无论是口感,层次,变化和后味这几方面。关键是有没有资深的评酒人参与挑选。

进口葡萄酒有了这样的“天时”,“地利”又能否接得上呢?没有一家进口酒销售能保证自己进来的酒能覆盖全国,皆因中国的地域实在是太广大了。东南西北中的口味与消费水平都可以完全不一,管你是什么特许加盟店,总部统一拿回来的品种在南方热卖,但在你位处的东北方可能变成积压库存。那么,众加盟店在每月或是每季调动一下货色便能速销库存嘛!谈何容易啊?深圳走陆路去广州或是汕头去厦门还可以,换上是广州去上海便加添了难度。目下的持续高温天气和国内的“三超”运输系统(超重、超长、超慢等等),不管好酒或普通酒,无一幸免地可能受破坏。

当中能解决“地利”障碍的做法可透过建立地区性或是全国性的“酒业联盟”,利用这类团体去加速互惠营销活动。譬方说,你是意大利酒进口商,我是法国酒进口商,他是德国酒进口商,大家可以互供货品去满足市场不同需要。在2008年11月18日由五十几家酒商在深圳组成的“粤港澳酒业联盟”便是当中的一个可行的模式了。这半年以来,这家联盟便在内部的平台里做了多个货柜量的买卖。在本年三月的成都全国糖烟酒会上,有不少的中西部城市如成都,重庆,长沙等地对进口酒的需求热切,促使当地经销商也想加盟在个南方酒业联盟,共享联盟的口号:快乐、共享和谐等等。他们这般举动是完全可以理解的,原因简单不过吧,正是他们那边均是散沙一盘,许多人对葡萄酒(特别是进口的)并不太了解。

可以预测,未来可能还有一个趋势,就是进口葡萄酒商的专业化,比如说要找澳洲酒的有几家,找智利酒的有哪几家,就算是法国酒,比如朗格多克地区的酒是哪些酒商出名,而勃艮第酒又有谁是专长。进口酒的门槛越来越低了,会有更多的有资金有兴趣的新手进入,但未来,可能更趋向专业化的道路,酒商之间相互换酒来卖,大家都不必积压太多存货,未必不是好事呢。

如果业界能多点付出努力,不太计较目前贡献,多把葡萄酒文化和知识让内陆酒业获取,让文化先行而产品后上,在物流这个环节多做工夫,改善运输问题,收成还是指日可待的,毕竟未来几年中,葡萄酒在中国还是一个上升的市场。

**This article was published in Marketing Column of SHENZHEN FINE WINE & LIQUOR May 2009**

Future China Wine Market as from 2009: Imported Wines are Blooming

If you started to enter China with imported wines as early as the beginning of 2000, you definitely had to leave the market there with heavy losses.  Even you only did the same right after the SARS incidence in 2003, the result would just be the same.

What would happen if you entered the market since last year?  If you now and then hold sufficient fund & professionals who know the market so well, in addition with very well platform & broad human relationship, best value-for-money wine merchandise & influencing media broadcasting, then provided that you keep on putting utmost effort, you might have a chance to achieve a brilliant future.  The imported wine world shall belong to China as from the second half of 2009.  Why?  The answer might be found from my explanation in this article as follows.

The leverage of imported wines cannot be benefitted from any current policy application in China (each bottle of imported wines is still subject to imported duty which ends up almost close to 50% of its landed value besides some extreme cases), it is only a matter of RIGHT TIMING.  Did not you remember the incidence of SAN LU (Triple Deers) milk powder and other events about the loss of quality control last year?  Local-made wines (not limited to a number of famous brands) used to dominate the common market of low-end spending, since that kind of astonished incidence, normal consumers started to realize that EVEN LOW-END IMPORTED WINES MIGHT BE MORE SECURED.  In addition to culture promotion of imported wines, medium-to-high-end consumers had dropped local-made wines like Great Wall Reserve 1992, etc. and moved to taste imported wines at similar price range.  Honestly speaking, various imported wines worth for a few hundred yuans (no matter they came from France or Italy or else) are definitely better than the Chinese ones, by means of taste, complexity & overall performance.  It is only a matter of whether there are any wine experts participate in the selection or not.

After imported wines have got that kind of RIGHT TIMING, can the other factor of favorable geographical position be linked up with it?  None of the imported wine distributors can guarantee that it can cover the whole country of China with its product, as the country is really too big.  The taste preference and living standard in the east, the south, the west, the north & the middle of the country may be totally different.  No matter you are running a franchise wine store of Aussino or Jointek, wines centrally imported by these franchisers get sellable in the south, but might turn into dead stock in the north where your store is located.  In that case, making BARTER movement of dead stock among franchise stores on a monthly or quarterly basis might solve the problem.  Easily said not easily done.  Land transport from Shenzhen to Guangzhou or from Shantou to Xiamen is still feasible, but from Guangzhou to Shanghai will make things difficult.  As the current consistent high-temperature climate & the mainland three-over transportation network (over-weight, over-size & over-low-speed, etc.) will damage the shipped wines, no matter they are fine or ordinary wines.

One of the solutions to overcome the geographical obstacles is to set up regional or national WINE UNIONS to speed up the mutual sales activities among the unions.  For instance, you are an Italian wine importer, I am a French wine importer and he is a German wine importer, and we all can inter-supply wines to fulfill various demands in the market.  On the 18th of November in 2008, there were over 50 wine associates formed the GHM WINE UNION (Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macau) in Shenzhen which is one of the feasible modes to achieve the said goals.  During the recent half of a year, trade had been concluded via this internal platform of the union for a great number of full load containers of wines.  At the National Wine & Tobacco Show in Chengdu in March this year, it was observed that there was heavy demand of imported wines at the mid-western cities like Chengdu, Chongqing, Changsha, etc.  Such demand accelerated wine distributors in those cities to make fast move to join such a wine union in the south in order to share mutually the slogan of the union: HAPPINESS, SHARE OF HARMONY, etc.  Such act of those distributors is fully understandable as a simple explanation of it is that, the markets there are still in a state of disunity and people there are lack of knowledge about wines (especially imported wines).

As scheduled, a future trend might appear that foreign wine importers might become more professional.  For instance, there might be a number of standby Australian wine suppliers, some specialized Chilean wine suppliers.  And even for French wine, some are expert dealers of Languedoc wine and some are focusing on Burgundy wine.  Anyhow, the threshold of imported wine tends to be lowered that more & more new comers having sufficient fund & great interest would enter the industry.  However, that is for sure that any party in the field tends to follow the path of professional & expertise.  Inter-supply of wines among wine associates to avoid overstock sounds a good thing to the industry.

If the wine industry can put extra effort without counting so much their present contribution, delivering more information & culture of wine to mainland wine industry, letting CULTURE MOVE FIRST & WINE MOVE NEXT, putting more effort on the logistics sector and improving the transportation network, harvest could be just around the corner.

英国一酿酒师被200个葡萄酒瓶压死

——转自Kong WeiGuo博客

英国一位名叫George Musgrave(66岁)的葡萄酿酒师在其酒庄从车上卸葡萄酒瓶子时,不慎被一筐(200个)滑下的葡萄酒瓶压死。

 

    当时,George Musgrave夫妇二人站在运输瓶子的卡车后面,刚上班第一天的司机在车厢里面往外推装有瓶子的框子时,没想到筐子没有在车的尾部停下来,而是直接滑了下来,并落在了George Musgrave的头上,致使其脊椎断裂、肋骨断裂、头颅受伤,送医院抢救后死亡。

是你让我泪流满面

──百尝

五月多多来,请他喝了一支珍藏的意大利葡萄酒,来自北部的皮埃蒙特产区(Piemonte)的酒王之地巴洛罗(Barolo):

Michele Chiarlo Triumviratum Barolo Riserva 1999。

开瓶,倒进杯中,是暗红的色泽,中央与边缘色调均匀;香气开始有皮毛的香,甚至有香水的错觉,很复杂,果香与陈香交融,细细的可分辨出黑枣、香料、香草、熏草、巧克力、烟丝、咖啡等等所有可能的气息;口味内敛但悠长,在杯中久了香气越来越好,有层次,多变化,大气磅礴,果然是好酒也。

和他谈着诗词、聊着东坡、听他发些内圣外王、穷达之道的感慨,这酒竟然也配合着谈资,口感隐然后显,丰富度和复杂度随着时间的过去越来越清晰,丹宁硬朗,在上下颚的表现明显,舌上却反而轻盈;滋味丰富,酸、甜,甚至有点咸,一方面表现出古典精致的巴洛罗的本来面目,一方面却又细致、温柔,如同内心丰富的男性般的酒。

“嗯,它、这酒用的是什么葡萄品种?”

“内比欧露,是皮埃蒙特产区的特有品种。”

“我喝过么?”

“除了和我,你在别的场合会喝葡萄酒么?”

“基本不会。”

“那你应该没喝过这种酒。”

“意大利酒,但是我喝过意大利酒啊!”

“意大利太多酒了。”

“我想问啊,葡萄酒的香气在品酒里面很重要是么?”

“是呀,葡萄酒的香气在品酒的时候能带来很多乐趣。”

“你们一般用花香、果香来形容?”

“任何在生活中可以接触到的香气都可以用来替代葡萄酒中可以感觉出的香。”

“可以、可以令你想起某些人么?”

“什么意思?”

“比如说啊,我是说比如说,当你喝到一款酒的时候令你想起某个人,怎么说呢,是它的香气令你想到一个人。”

“我不明白你的意思。你是说你在酒里感觉的香气令你想起一个女孩子?还是说就是在酒里感觉到了她身上也有的香气?”

“大概就是这样意思吧。”

“哦。”

“哦?哦什么?”

“呵呵。当然,就说这酒吧,内比欧露,本身是有动物性的香,而植物性的香除了红色水果,也有那种干燥的玫瑰、紫罗兰、甚至牡丹花瓣的香,有时还会有松露,很多女性用品香水呀、润肤膏呀也会有这些香气,所以你说喝到一款酒令你想起以前和你女朋友接吻时的口香甚至耳鬓肆摩时候嗅到的体味都有可能。”

“对对对、对,就是这个意思!说起来好像那也是一瓶意大利酒!可能就是这酒!”

“不可能,你看这酒:Triumviratum,酒名意谓古罗马时代的三位联合执政官,庄主是用他在Barolo最好的三块葡萄园所产的葡萄来酿造这酒的,不是每年都有,仅在最好的年份才出产,背标写的1999年也只酿了大约2600瓶。”

“是不是这酒,我不记得酒名,不过酒标不一样,我的意思是说可能就是这种葡萄酿的酒,因为真的也是意大利酒,名字好像也是B开头。”

“B开头?令你想到女人?或许吧,不是Barolo,或许是Barbaresco,葡萄都是内比欧露,Barbaresco稍微女性化些。”

“哇,你一定要帮我找到那瓶酒!”

“为什么?”

“你知道么,去年的五月汶川地震时,在电视新闻画面上看到这样一幕,解放军到达救灾的现场,利用冲锋艇、浮排要将震后余生的村民运送到河的对岸,电视上看到真的很气的:争先恐后的都是男人!更有甚者为争着先上船竟左推右突、箍颈摁背的大打出手!镜头一转,岸边一大堆的人群,而在靠后处我发现有一对年青的男女紧紧拥抱在一起,旁若无人。——那一刻让我非常地感动!”

“大时代的爱情总让人感动啊。”

“或许吧,那时候我也是刚从天而降了一个女朋友,是一直梦寐以求的那种类型,但是一直都没有遇上,然后猛然间就从天而降,就这样被打动了。如果人生可以重来,我会把她宠成我唯一的公主。可是年纪大了有着过去和现在,不能再轻付诺言,但是,但是我知道我是多么的渴望她是我最后的归宿。”

“结果呢?”

“不行啊,只能分开啊。”

“嗯哼。”

“那么多年很多事不明白,但是自己想要的、愿意陪伴终老的人是谁我还是知道的。只是年纪大了,当正确的人出现我却身处围城,于是便有了正确的人、正确的地点和正确的时间的那个古老的矛盾,哪一个环节是一个错误呢?我不知道。”

“但还是分开了?”

“只能分开啊。”

“谁说的:爱情就跟战争一样开始容易结束难。”

“是呀,我也以为自己很难放弃她,结果,很容易的,就那样分开了。”

“然后呢?”

“没有然后啊,所以说告别其实也不是一件为难的事情。”

“是么。”

“嗯,也可以说是有然后,然后就是有一次在某个场合喝到一款酒,忽然的那种香气让我想起她的、她的香来,闭上眼就好像她在你身边、和你、你刚才说什么来着、耳鬓肆摩。说来惭愧,也有想念,更多的是感激,那一瓶酒竟让我泪流满面。”

“这就是葡萄酒啊,你永远不知道它会带给你些什么,在下一杯酒里你又会遇到了什么,不打开瓶子你永远不知道这一瓶酒是否你的天造地设。”

——六月份《天下美食》