法国波尔多右岸圣达美浓Chateau DE PRESSAC比萨优质庄：5月广东酒会晚宴
Chateau DE PRESSAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru比萨 圣达美浓优质酒庄并非因着日本之“神之水滴”漫画作者年前的拜访和近日的报道和推介，亦非冲着今年五月下旬的香港Vinexpo国际酒展和此酒庄出品累获奖项，继而选择在今年上旬登录神州。真正的原因是基于此庄之品质日益而上，潜能无限，不把好东西放诸于伟大的葡萄酒市场（中国），真是此生遗憾！
上述正是阿KEN透过与比萨酒庄庄主克宁先生（Jean-Francois Quenin）在香港Vinexpo国际酒展会谈所感受到他的内心说话。克宁庄主不单有这种想法，还起来行动，联同其大中华总代理林惠雄先生夫人及佛山总经销《佛山健愉酒业》在香港Vinexpo国际酒展闭幕后便跑去广东以下几个城市展开“比萨美酒推广活动”。阿KEN仅代表佛山健愉酒业在下述做个全面报道，希望业界关注这款美酒在中国之发展空间和潜能：
2010年5月28日于番禺“品栈酒窖”私房菜品酒午宴
此私房菜馆只是整家酒窖的主体部分，皆因这店还有卖酒机品试区，包厢豪华房和品酒大厅，开放式厨房，葡萄酒课程培训室和多功能宴会厅等等设施。整个午宴提供的都是时尚中西合璧菜肴，那道安格斯牛扒配上比萨正牌（Chateau DE PRESSAC）2003年红酒正是天作之合，酒液异常地细滑如丝，其丰满的酒体不单能征服微辣的黑椒酱汁，还把牛扒的鲜味带出，果香与木味之平衡，互不霸占，收结舒畅，后味甘润悠长。
克宁庄主倒是挺细心的温文绅士，他不单带了比萨正牌红酒（有2003和2005两个年份）和比萨副牌红酒《TOUR DE PRESSAC》（有2004和2005两个年份），还有他的好友酒庄的布艮第北部霞多丽白酒（JEROME GALEYRAND AOC Marsannay 2005）及贵腐甜酒（Chateau LES ROQUES AOC Loupiac 2002 375ml）。那些红酒配上主菜已是“最佳拍档”，想不到“布白酒“竟能与头盘千岛酱沙拉和黄油煎银雪鱼互擦火花。还有，那款贵腐甜酒和水果拼盘及纽约芝士饼皆相得益彰。好一顿近乎完美的午宴！
说真的，事后酒窖老板也对比萨红酒和这类的法国白甜两酒满有信心，阿KEN和林氏夫妇及克宁庄主都对中国餐饮配右岸美酒投以信心一票。
2010年5月28日于佛山“健愉酒窖”参观和“卓苑酒家”品酒晚宴
克宁庄主一进健愉酒窖便认定这店能突显葡萄酒文化气息之地方。他强烈感受到店内之简洁到位的陈设，教人轻松舒畅的环境，堂煌的品酒大厅配合了充足的柔和光线，让品喝者撤底感受到“色香味”之品酒三步曲段。他还在店内发现了“神之水滴”第21期漫画书，翻看了其中一页预告“比萨2005红酒”之简介，看到当中的庄主画像真是与自己无分两样，仅是头发长短的具别而已。看到店内一排排展示售卖的比萨红酒，克宁庄主满是开心欣慰。
品酒晚宴当夜在酒窖附近的卓苑酒家举行。该酒家主推高级粤菜，好多道菜基本上与比萨正副牌酒都能配搭合宜。我们筵开六席，分六个不同特色贵宾房进行这场品酒晚宴。与会贵宾计有佛山领导，几家举足轻重的银行老总，工业界老板，审计界翘楚和多位品红爱好者。
以下是我们的品酒排序：
1） 比萨副牌2004：
此酒没灌进醒酒器，仅于开瓶直接进杯后20分钟已处备饮状态。酒液果味足够，木味稳重，酒体柔和，单宁幼滑，收结后味两回味可人。
2） 比萨正牌2003：
此酒同样也没灌进醒酒器，仅于开瓶直接进杯后30分钟处备饮状态。酒液果味浓郁但来得细致，木味幽香，酒体丰满，单宁如丝，收结平衡，后味悠长优雅。
3）比萨副牌2005：
此酒亦没灌进醒酒器，约于开瓶直接进杯后35分钟呈备饮状态。酒液果木并发，两者全没互相冲击，只是一先一后，周而复始而已。酒体饱满，单宁协调，收结柔合，后味回甘。
4） 比萨正牌2005（神之水滴主角酒）：
此酒灌入醒酒器约40分钟后便进杯品喝。它果味浓厚突出，木味稳步而出但持久力惊人，酒体丰厚，单宁幼细，收结和谐，后味无穷，而且香气持久，如同闻上铁观音或生普洱的冷香一样。
众贵宾不止能尝到这么精彩的优质庄酒，还各自获庄主亲笔签名一瓶比萨正牌2003年酒，作为收藏纪念。是夜每个环节都是接近完美，庄主亲看到贵宾们之品尝节奏，转眼间便喝掉了60多瓶比萨正副红酒，无不“惊讶欢喜”。唯一的污点是其中一贵宾房居然有些来宾硬要把酒序对掉过来，先尝比萨正牌2005，最后到比萨副牌2004，结果当他们在离场之际，听其他贵宾道出是夜美酒如何如何可口，内心无不酸痛。都是他们采取的“从最好的喝先”的模式坏了事吧。
2010年5月29日于东莞“拉菲酒窖”下午品酒会
相比番禺和佛山这两大广东销费城市，东莞可以说是“上流销费之源头”。这场下午比萨优庄品酒会吸引了几十位省内外酒业和爱好者光临。与会者虽是仅获简单小食伴酒品尝，但出奇地各人均觉得比萨正副红酒独尝仍是优雅舒畅。
庄主在找紧回家行程之际向来宾作了酒庄全面介绍，让听众们撤底了解比萨酒之来龙去脉。大家不可不知，克宁庄主在1997年众财经界退下来，把多桶赚回来的金银去买下比萨庄。之后，把庄园粉饰改革，不断改良酒庄设备和提升酒质。他还在圣达美浓优质区当上协会会长（前任会长是金钟庄主），在过去的几个年头，他带领该区大规模地进军中国，把合宜提早备喝的右岸酒（因着酒液占据大比数美乐葡萄，让酒体异常轻盈幼滑及果香满溢）推进市场。估计克宁庄主今年年底退让会长一职后能看到众多锐意提高品质的圣达美浓优质庄基于他的付出，能在2012年圣达美浓列级庄（Grand Cru Classe）重新邻选之日，登上列级庄之排名榜上。阿KEN相信那时比萨庄也会升格为列级名庄，时间是最好的证人啊，大家悉目以待吧。
阿KEN且把酒庄简介列述如下供大家分享：
酒庄历史：于1737-1747年间以比萨爵士命名（比萨镇以1453年签订百年战争和平条约之地而扬名欧洲）
园庄占地：39公顷
葡萄品种：美乐（占70%），品丽珠（占20%），赤霞珠（占7%），卡曼尼（占2%）及黑比萨（Noir de Pressac占1%）- 黑比萨是1737年引进的奥沙浩（Auxerrois）或叫玛尔碧（Malbec）的另一称号
酿造工艺：传统右岸工艺，正牌存木桶两年以上，副牌（Chateau TOUR DE PRESSAC）存木桶一年以上（木桶半数每年交替更换）
年产量：正牌上万瓶及副牌约3万瓶
如需进一步了解比萨庄园和在国内销售详情，请联系：
佛山市南海健愉酒业有限公司（比萨酒佛山总经销）
联系人：阿KEN（劳沛祥）
电话：139 2280 9964；852-94911223（香港）
电邮：kenpclo727@yahoo.com.hk或jimmywinecellar@yahoo.cn
Chateau DE PRESSAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru : Wine Promotion Events in Guangdong (China) in May
Neither for the reason of the recent publishing by the Japanese wine comedy book “LES GOUTTES DE DIEU” since its writer’s previous visit to Chateau DE PRESSAC in Saint-Emilion, nor due to the recent HK Vinexpo in late May, in addition to various honorable prizes given to the wine product of the said Chateau, the major reason is to launch the Chateau’s wines to the world biggest market (that is China), letting people there aware of the improving quality and the unlimited potential of the wines. Without doing this right now, it would be a great ashame.
Above statement was formed by the heartiest words from Mr Jean-Francois Quenin (owner of Chateau DE PRESSAC) through his recent meeting with the writer (KEN) at the HK Vinexpo . Not only having such a vision as stated as above, Mr Quenin even put it into practice by travelling among some cities in Guangdong Province with the couple “Mr Alex Lim & Mrs Cathy Lim” (being the Great China Sole Agent of the winery) right after the HK Vinexpo to host Chateau DE PRESSAC Fine Wine Promotion Events. The writer, on behalf of Foshan Jimmy Wine Cellar, hereby reports the overall event occasion as follows so as to draw the wine industry’s attention to the potential development of such fine wines in China:
Private Fusion Kitchen Lunch Tasting at HANZ WINE CELLAR at Panyu on 2010/5/28
Prior to the presentation of Chateau TOUR DE PRESSAC 2004 (also its 2005) and Chateau DE PRESSAC 2003 (also its 2005) by Gentlemen Quenin, which were perfectly matching the Angus beef steak, a bottle of JEROME GALEYRAND AOC Marsannay 2005 was first served which matched well with the thousand-island sauced salard and the deep-fried black cot fish fillet. Also, the last-served Chateau LES ROQUES AOC Loupiac 2002 375ml sweet wine played harmonious tune with the mixed-fruit plate and the New York cheese cake.
That was a wonderful lunch and the HANZ WINE CELLAR owner expressed his great confidence in promoting both red and white wines as well as the sweet wine in his private fusion kitchen. We all voted our unique bill of confidence that such right-band fine wines can definitely match with Chinese cuisine.
Visit Foshan Jimmy Wine Cellar & Wine Dinner Promotion at Zhou Yuan Restaurant at Foshan on 2010/5/28
Mr Quenin sensed firmly very outstanding atmosphere of wine culture while entering Foshan Jimmy Wine Cellar Shop. “That is definitely the right place for experiencing the three-step wine tasting and enjoyment, with sufficient in-house lighting underneath the majestic lobby’s ceiling of the shop”, as from the facial expression of Mr Quenin. Mr Quenin got great comfort after reading some pages of LES GOUTTES DE DIEU (the Japanese wine comedy book) where he found his own image and the introduction of his winery as well as Chateau DE PRESSAC 2005.
The Wine Dinner Promotion was carried out at Zhuo Yuan Restaurant at Foshan. Various high-quality Cantonese dishes there tasted well with both Chateau TOUR DE PRESSAC and Chateau DE PRESSAC wines. Six dinning tables were presented and fully occupied by local government leaders, bankers, factory owners, accountants and wine lovers. Below was the presentation sequence as arranged by the writer:
1) Chateau TOUR DE PRESSAC 2004:
Sufficient fruity flavors with firm oaky aroma after the first 20 mins since serving the wine at the glass, the body was tender whereas the tannin was smooth, both lasting and after-taste were wonderful.
2) Chateau DE PRESSAC 2003:
After serving the wine at the glass for 30 mins, fruity flavors reacted fully round, the oaky aroma was progressively released, the body was full and the tannin was silky, balanced lasting and the after-taste was lengthy & elegant.
3) Chateau TOUR DE PRESSAC 2005:
This wine was served at the glass for 35 mins, both fruity & oaky flavors were apparent but under harmonious control, those flavors turned out just one after the other at repeated durations. The body was round & full, the tannin was harmonious, the finish was well coordinated, the after-taste was sweet right after bitterness.
4) Chateau DE PRESSAC 2005 (the LES GOUTTES DE DIEU nominated wine):
This wine was served at the glass after located in decanter for 40 mins, both fruity & oaky flavors were obvious with long-lasting power, the body was round & full, the tannin was silky, the finish was harmonious, the after-taste was long-lasting.
The most wonderful moment of the dinner was the gift presentation of OWNER’S SIGNATURE WINE of Chateau DE PRESSAC 2003 to the VIP guests as good memory. Mr Quenin was amazed by the drinking manner at the dinner that over 60 bottles of the wines were finished at a glance. That was a good finding with his personal testimony. However, some guests were still following their usual practice in China by reversing the writer’s sequence – they started drinking Chateau DE PRESSAC 2005 and ending up with Chateau TOUR DE PRESSAC 2004 (that was, drinking the best first & ending up with the most fundamental one). We all hoped that such kind of practice would be put in the right path in the near future.
Afternoon Wine Tasting at LAFITE CELLAR at Dongguan on 2010/5/29
There were around 30 guests tasting the wines at the abovesaid cellar at Dongguan (which is another well-off city like Panyu & Foshan). Although some snack was served at the party, however, most guests found that the wines were very tasty & elegant even drinking them alone.
Mr Quenin was presenting an overall introduction of his cellar to the guests as the opening ceremony. After his full-dedication to renovating the chateau & improving the quality of the wines there since his acquisition of the winery in 1997, the wines had become well-known in the industry. He is the current Chairman of St-Emilion/Pomerol/Fronsac Wine Association (the last Ex-Chairman was the owner of Chateau ANGELUS) and has leaded the association members enter China with ready-for-drink right bank wines (thanks God for the Merlot grape making most wines in those regions very fruity & tender) during the past few years.
Probably, after surrendering the position of the association Chairman, with the great contribution of increasing the quality & image of St-Emilion wines, Chateau DE PRESSAC can be upgraded to Grand Cru Classe standard in the 2012 re-classification. Let time run and be the judge of it.
Below are some significant data of the Chateau DE PRESSAC:
HISTORY:
The county was named PRESSAC during 1737-1747 by adopting the family name of Baron PRESSAC, where the surrender was signed after the Battle of Castillon, that ended the Hundred Years’ War in 1453.
WINERY AREA: 39 Hectares
GRAPE VARIETIES:
70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Carmenere & 1% Noir de Pressac (Pressac Black) which could be called as Malbec.
WINE MAKING TECHNIQUE:
Long vatting. Aged in oak casks, one half of which are renewed every year.
ANNUAL PRODUCTION:
About 30,000 bottles
For further details, please contact the winery or:
FOSHAN JIMMY WINE CELLAR (Foshan Sole Distributor)
Contact: Mr Kenneth Lo (KEN)
Tel: 139 2280 9964 (China); 852-9491 1223 (HK)
Email: kenpclo727@yahoo.com.hk or jimmywinecellar@yahoo.cn
