Henschke – 触碰. 经典. (下)
即上文https://wineshe.oss-cn-shanghai.aliyuncs.com/blog/wineblog/readblog.asp?id=989
最近好多东西拖沓着, 赶紧送上Henschke的下集, 以供一悦.
开始红酒的品尝...
2005 Henry’s Seven (65%
A: deep Cherry, bright
N: complex nose, developed fairly quick, bit reductive
P: too dark, too ripe, too round, too, heavy, very soft tannin
05对澳洲来说是个比较糟糕的年份, 太多的积温使得葡萄成熟地太快, 在Barossa的有些地区更是有20 波美以上的果子. 导致市面上很多中低端05 年的酒都有over-ripe, round, soft的特点, 酿酒师能做得也就是这些了. 但是也促成了一批early release, early drinking的酒, 不知道对刚刚好转的over-supply会不会有负面影响.
2006 Johann’s Garden (68% grenache, 17% mourvèdre and 15%
A: medium violet
N: minty, spicy, sweet lolly, perfumed, clear nose with great intensity, young
P: juicy mid-palate; 2nd and 3rd characters dominate and overwhelms the 1st fruit character
Bit acidic, fine tannins, coffee+lolly finish
intense and very complex
很好的GMS, 只能用活跃来形容, 酒体给人轻松又不失激情的感觉. Johann’s Garden也同样是Henschke比较活跃的一个产品, 在很多bottle shop都可以找到, 个人感觉比较像大公司请得漂亮前台, 门面要做好, 分量也不少.
2004 Keyneton Estate Euphonium (40%
A: deep plumy
N: Juicy fruit with minty, lolly, dusty, toffeey, peppery; vanillar, chocolaty oak; very complex
P: very good mid-palate weight from
1. fleshy juicy primary fruit with ripe red fruit and developed fruitcake character
2. Oily and creamy from MLF
Gripy touch on front and back palate, lovely bitty tannins (fine grained) balanced with acid (a bit lack of acid)
访Henschke是九月底的时候, 昨天又有机会尝了一次Keyneton, 简略的记下了几笔: mid-palate intensity; structure still there but bit thin due to the lack of acidity; fairly balanced. 很高兴自己的palate很忠于事实, 也算是对喝酒这东西少许入门了. 但是在昨天的场合Keyneton卖到了$47, 虽然号称是一级代理, 但是这个价位还是让人有些看不懂. Keyneton在这个价位是一个很不错的选择, 平衡的口感来自各种葡萄的掺和(应该是blend才对), 结构也不少, 最出色的是mid-palate weight, good one.
2004 Lenswood Abbotts Prayer How much: $62.50
A: blood red
N: sweet fruit nose with a lot leafy character; capsicum a hint from Cab
Nice developed characters: truffle, mushroom, earth, chocolate
P: a gripy touch on front and back (tight and very fine) adds to another dimension of the wine
Good acid and tannin balance, a bit rough tannin structure, need more aging to soften the edge
(88% merlot and 12% cabernet sauvignon) 澳洲的单一品种merlot不多, 好的单一品种merlot更少了, Henschke的这款虽然有12%的Cab, 但是也可以算是澳洲merlot为主导的酒的benchmark了, 也是我向来很喜欢的一款. Cab的加入使结构比较绵软无力的merlot虽然没有达到强劲的胫骨, 但是足够支撑复杂浓郁的果味以及成年的风味的结合. 另外Adelaide Hills 的Lenswood更是很多好merlot果子的出产地, 就像Ashtonhills 的 Reserve Merlot, Knappstein的Palatine, 都是出自这个传奇性的地区. 不难相信好的Merlot需要胫骨, 而Adelaide Hills偏冷的气候使得果子成熟期长久, 有利于单宁的形成和积累, 另外较低的温度也使得酸度有了保留. 一直默默地喜欢Lenswood这个名字, 本来是因为写在label上很漂亮, 其实也是有深层原因的, 嘻嘻~
2004 Tappa Pass
A: deep crimson
N: perfumed, violet, floral, lifted nose with heaps of dark fruit (blackberry, prune) behind, young
P: fleshy, spicy, savoury with ripen leafy character; medium acid with fine grained tannins contributes to a silky texture
Barossa old vine Shiraz 典型风格, 果园土质比较有意思, 网站介绍如下”The old, low-yielding vines are growing in devigorating Neoproterozoic soils about 542 million years old, ranging from red-brown earths to terra rossa.” 又见terra rossa!
2004 Mount Edelstone Shiraz [
A: deep crimson with plum hue
N: sweet fruit nose comes from heaps of ripen fruit, fruit, fruit!!! Complex, impressive
P: fleshy, juice, jamy fruit; bit mixed spice, minty, fruit dominates;
Bit over vanillar oaky; 3rd starts to come out;
Nice savoury acidity carries the palate long long
100% 90-year-old-vine shiraz 做出这样水准的酒离不开这样品质的果子, 第一次用jamy这个词但并不没有腻的感觉, 印象深刻的佳作. 酸的品质更是让果味持久, 背后细小的单宁衬托着整个柔和但又强劲的结构, 好酒.
2004 Cyril Henschke [
A: deep plumy, M+
N: full expression of ripe Cabernet fruit with a bit spicy touch; sweet merloty fruit bebind, bit clove touch, interesting oak?
P: intense 1st and 3rd well integrated;
Merlot contributes to mid-palate sweetness with heaps of creaminess, butterscotch and toffee
Fantastic structure with plenty of firm bitty coating tannins supports the full mouth flavour; acid is there but not obvious at all
90% Cab+10% Merlot 和Abbott’s Prayer 相映成辉的Cyril 是除了Hill of Grace最高端的酒, 如果说Cab在Abbott Merlot主导的基础上有点刻意地加入了一些结构元素的话, 那Merlot在Cyril里却是起了画龙点睛之用, 大气宽阔的Cab有了merlot水果增添的mid-palate更是让整个酒体完整无缺, 柔软,紧凑,浓郁,优雅, 完美平衡的酒体!
2002 Hill of Grace How much: $ 469
A: deep plum with redish tint
N: sweet nose (coconut, vanilla, liquorice, even honey)
Heaps of ripen berries (blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry)
Butterscotch, creamy also on the nose;
Minty, chololaty, meaty 3rd characters start to show up with a bit leathery hint
P: intense fruit flavour in mouth with plenty of extra fine grained dynamic tannins
A touch of malty rancio character (very interesting oak use???)
Smokey, tobacco, toffeey finish very long
从Abbotts Prayer 到Cyril着实已经给味蕾很大地冲击了, 再来的是原本躲在角落的Hill of Grace, 02vintage 的气候条件非常糟, 又冷又风又雨又湿, 导致产量降低了20%, 不知道是不是导致价格上涨的另一个原因.
对于澳洲旗舰酒还没有评定的本领, 只觉得和02 Grange相比是两种风格, 一个像energetic的teenager, 虽然还未成熟, 但是处处显示出过人的潜质. 而另一个却如深沉早熟的teenager, 获有了不属于这个年龄的优雅和气质. 而Hill of Grace的内敛正是诠释了后者给人的感觉. 在谈到橡木桶的使用时, sales老mm坚持他们正在向美国木桶向法国转型, 你转型可以,但是也要忠于事实啊, 在我的坚持下她翻出了陈年老历, 80%的American oak历历在目, 于我的猜测判断不谋而合, 也同时引来周围游客的奇异眼光 (你丫们小看我了吧, 哈哈哈)
(继续恶俗, 抱着Hill of Grace狂拍, 眼神已经无神+迷离, 喝多了~)
如此Henschke的一日游就告一段落了, 为什么说一日游呢, 因为原本准备的Mount Adams之行只能因为在这里近两个小时的tasting而流产了, 走出cellar door, 已近暮色
(可爱的砖瓦小房子, 这是cellar door的背面, 不知道里面藏着多少HoG, 哈哈哈)
(出门不能忘记虐待一下你这小家伙, 一只会敲门进出的明星小狗)
Henschke 这样的tasting没六周举行一次, 没记错通常应该是到Abbotts Prayer就结束了, 这第一次去就有那么好的运气, 决定继续前行7分钟(另一个sales 老mm说的)去传说中的HoG vineyard看看, 膜拜一下, 可是在石子路上颠啊颠的就是没有葡萄园的样子, 终于还是取消念头打道回家, 做人不能太贪心的, 今天已经够好运了. 这样的cellar door, 难道不值得再来一次吗?
