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分类 酒友随笔 下的文章
不喝法国酒，喝什么？
我在欧洲美国生活多年，对国外媒体对中国的不实报道是司空见怪的了，尤其是“中国威胁论”更加深了西方人对中国的敌视。这次西藏暴乱，外国媒体颠倒是非，引发了一阵“抵制北京奥运”的热潮。法国总统萨科奇前几天曾隐晦地提到可能抵制参加奥运会开幕式来表示对中国西藏问题的不满。如果他真boycott奥运开幕式的话，我将boycott法国酒来支持北京奥运。
法国酒可以不喝，但葡萄酒是不能不喝的。诚然很多地区的法国酒有独特的terroir，找不到完全的替代品，但要求不是太高的话，找到相似的酒不是很难。
波尔多（Bordeaux）
红酒可以用加州Meritage替代，很多那帕酒厂的高级酒都是采用Bordeaux blend，有的酒标还特意表明左岸还是右岸风格。南美尤其是智利也有不少很好的波尔多风格的酒。波尔多白酒采用semillon和sauvignon blanc, 本身产量不大，甜白酒比干白酒更出名，干白酒不是很重要，出名的来自Grave地区，加州的sauvignon blanc都是学波尔多风格，而销量远比她的“老师”好，澳大利亚东南地区的白酒也不错。至于波尔多的甜白酒，亚洲人本身就受不了那种甜，如果一定要找出可以替代sauternes的甜酒，我会选西班牙的Malaga, 意大利的Vin Santo和德国的Trockenbeerenauslese.
勃艮第（Burgundy）
勃艮第主要也就四种葡萄，Aligote, Pinot Noir，Chardonnay和薄弱来的Gamay.
Aligote主要用来生产低质量的葡萄酒（有时加入muscadet），可能国产酒还要好过她。Beaujolais的新酒很烂，cru 级别的可以用西班牙la mancha的tempranillo代。勃艮第的白酒除了三个村庄：Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet和Chassagne-Montrachet很难找到替代品外，其他村庄和Chablis, Maconnais地区的Chardonnay都容易从加州，澳大利亚Adelaide Hills, Hunter Valley, 以及智利Casablanca, Central Valley地区的找出替代酒。勃艮第的红酒一向让人们陶醉，的确很难在世界其他地区找到与之比配的pinot noir, 不过一定要喝pinot noir的话，美国的加州Carneros和Sonoma，Oregon的Willamette Valley，新西兰的Martinborough都产不错的pinot noir.
阿尔萨斯（Alsace）
这个地区在17世纪后一会儿属于法国，一会儿属于德国，所以酒的特性也近似德国酒。以干白为主，Pinot gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer和Muscat都能在德国酒中找到。附近的瑞士Valais，奥地利Wachau，Weinviertel也产相似风格的白葡萄酒。
罗瓦谷(Loire Valley)
这个地区出名的酒有Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume,Vouvray, Chinon和一些由Chenin Blanc酿的甜酒。Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume可以用新西兰和南非的Sauvignon Blanc代; Vouvray，Savenniere是我钟爱的，南非1/5的葡萄园种植的是Chenin Blanc（在南非叫Steen），所以在南非Coastal能找到不错的Chenin Blanc干白或甜酒。罗瓦谷的红酒以Cabernet Franc出名，不过酒在法国之外很少见，有的也是出自Chinon地区。我相信对Cabernet Franc感兴趣的人应该不会很多。
容谷(Rhone Valley)
Rhone分北部和南部，北部红酒以Syrah为主，混一些Marsanne,Roussanne,白酒以Viognier为主. Syrah和Viognier在新世界里种植很广，澳大利亚，美国，南非，南美寒冷地区的Syrah会更接近北容谷风格。
南部以Grenache为主，接近南容谷风格酒在南边的西班牙就能找到，如Campo de Borja, Priorat, Jumilla的monastroell.
香槟
我个人不是很喜欢法国香槟，总觉得太酸，但有很多人喜欢她。每个酿酒国家都生产气泡酒，完全按传统方法（traditional method）酿制的汽酒不多，除法国香槟地区外，西班牙的Cave, 南非的Cap Classique和美国标有traditional method的汽酒。的确很难找到能替代法国香槟的汽酒，如果喝香槟只是为了烘托气氛的话，Cave, Asti Spumante, Prosecco，Sekt都行。
法国红酒在中国曾经是葡萄酒的代名词，是法国为之骄傲的产品。中国人也为奥运能在中国举行而自豪，希望法国总统能把奥运和政治分开，尊重中国人愿望，不然的话，我只能暂别法国酒了。
2007年 - 波爾多艱難的一年
2007年是波爾多十分艱難的一年. 這年的夏天, 天氣十分糟糕, 6, 7, 8 月份多濕, 陰冷造成農田病害. 如果沒有9月份頭兩個星期的晴天酷熱天氣挽救了葡萄, 這一年將是徹底的災難性的一年. 由於上述原因, 2007年份波爾多紅酒的整體質素很一般. 優秀者屈指可數. 以下是WineSpectator 最新的桶酒試飲(Barrel Tasting)中最高分的酒款名單, 供大家參考: Top-Scoring 2007 BordeauxCHÂTEAU MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 2007Score: 90-93 Wonderful perfumes of flowers, currant, blackberry and violet. Full-bodied, with very fine tannins and a caressing texture. Long and balanced. Very, very pretty. —J.S. CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU St.-Julien 2007Score: 89-92 A solid wine, with plenty of rose petal, berry and currant character. Full and chewy. Ripe and very powerful. Wait and see, but impressive for the vintage. —J.S. CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 2007Score: 89-92 Very new Lafite, with firm, yet polished tannins and subdued currant and sweet tobacco character. Long and structured. Racy. —J.S. CHÂTEAU LATOUR Pauillac 2007Score: 89-92 Very pretty and refined, with wonderful, silky tannin texture and ripeness. Full and harmonious, with lots of fruit at the end. A reserved and subtle wine. —J.S. CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE LAS CASES St.-Julien 2007Score: 89-92 This is layered, with sweet tobacco, currants, berries and dried flowers. Full and silky, with a long finish. Beautiful already. —J.S. CHÂTEAU MARGAUX Margaux 2007Score: 89-92 Aromas of blackberry, black licorice and currant follow through to a medium-to-full body, with fine tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. Balanced and perfumed. Very Burgundian and pretty. —J.S. CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON Pauillac 2007Score: 88-91 Currants and licorice, with a floral character on the nose and palate. Medium-to-full body, good fruit and fine tannins. Balanced and pretty. —J.S. CHÂTEAU COS-D'ESTOURNEL St.-Estèphe 2007Score: 88-91 Shows lovely perfume of dried flowers and berry, with a hint of currant. Full and long, with pretty tannins and a long finish. Balanced and pretty. —J.S. CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE Pauillac 2007Score: 88-91 Plenty of subtle cassis and floral aromas follow through to a medium-to-full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Pretty wine. —J.S. CHÂTEAU GRUAUD-LAROSE St.-Julien 2007Score: 88-91 Soft and round, with lovely texture. Medium- to full-bodied, with berry, currant and chocolate flavors and a long, caressing finish. Delicious already. —J.S. CHÂTEAU LANGOA BARTON St.-Julien 2007Score: 88-91 Lovely ripe fruit, with blackberry and cherry character and chocolate undertones. Long finish. Soft texture. —J.S. CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE BARTON St.-Julien 2007Score: 88-91 Lovely core of blackberry and currant, with smoky oak and chocolate. Full and velvety. Delicious already. —J.S. CHÂTEAU PALMER Margaux 2007Score: 88-91 Very pretty, with blackberry, light vanilla and a coffee bean character. Medium-to-full body, with ultrafine tannins and a long, clean finish. —J.S. CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-BARON Pauillac 2007Score: 88-91 Impressive concentration for the vintage, with plenty of currant and berry on the nose and palate. Medium-to-full body, fine tannins and a medium finish. Well done for the vintage. —J.S. CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-LALANDE Pauillac 2007Score: 88-91 This is very firm and racy, with good fruit concentration. Medium-to-full body, chewy tannins and a medium finish. Very good density for the vintage. Wait and see. —J.S. CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET Pauillac 2007Score: 88-91 Crushed blackberry, currant and light licorice. Full-bodied, with lovely ripe tannins and a long, fruity finish. Balanced and refined. A beauty. —J.S. CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA Margaux 2007Score: 88-91 Very pretty fruit for the vintage, with blackberry, currant and lightly smoky oak. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a fruity finish. Refined and delicious. —J.S. CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU St.-Julien 2007Score: 87-90 This shows impressive concentration of fruit for the vintage, with plenty of currants and violets, as well as blackberries. Full and silky. Slightly hollow in the center palate, but very pretty. —J.S. CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR St.-Estèphe 2007Score: 87-90 Fresh and fruity, with lovely currant, blackberry and smoke character. Medium body, fine tannins and a clean, fresh finish. Refined and delicate. —J.S. CLOS DU MARQUIS St.-Julien 2007Score: 87-90 Roses and blackberries, with hints of currants. Full-bodied, with firm and silky tannins and plenty of character. Refined and pretty. —J.S. LES FORTS DE LATOUR Pauillac 2007Score: 87-90 Refined, with layers of polished tannins and a subtle and delicate palate. Medium-bodied, with lovely length and finesse. —J.S. CHÂTEAU HAUT-BATAILLEY Pauillac 2007Score: 87-90 Very pretty, with berry and sweet tobacco character. Medium body, fine tannins and a fresh and fruity finish. Delicious already. —J.S. CHÂTEAU MONTROSE St.-Estèphe 2007Score: 87-90 Berry and citrus fruit on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a soft-textured finish. Pleasant and fruity. Friendly and caressing. Just a touch hollow in the midpalate. —J.S. CHÂTEAU POUGET Margaux 2007Score: 87-90 Very attractive crushed berry aromas follow through to a medium body, with ripe, almost sweet berry on the center palate. Long and fruity. —J.S. CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE Margaux 2007Score: 87-90 Violet and berry aromas follow through to a medium body, with firm tannins and a long finish for the vintage. Nicely done. —J.S. CHÂTEAU ST.-PIERRE St.-Julien 2007Score: 87-90 Blackberries and flowers on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied, with silky, integrated tannins and a medium finish. —J.S. CHÂTEAU TALBOT St.-Julien 2007Score: 87-90 Has a pretty core of ripe plum and berry fruit, with a medium body, fine tannins and a clean finish. —J.S. |
福州红酒俱乐部第一次活动计划
福州红酒俱乐部第一次活动计划
时间：2008年3月29 日星期六
地点：宝龙家乐福，福州山姆，福州麦德龙
参与人：万年 小海盗诺诺 Vicky 小兔
主题：识瓶标
目的：对世界各国的葡萄酒有一个印象，能够区分典型地区的葡萄酒
流程：
1， 世界主要的产区，新世界主要国家，旧世界主要国家。目标：知道世界主要的葡萄酒产地，并知道主要的葡萄品种。
2， 主要要的红白葡萄品种认识，目标：认识5种以上的葡萄品种，并作记录。
3， 各国的分级制度，以法国的分级制度作为典型。目标：能够区分AOC等级和其他等级的差异。
4， 纪录10个以上的瓶标信息
范例：
酒名： | Chateau de Fesles, Cabernet Franc ""Vieilles Vignes"", Anjou 2006 |
酒厂： | Chateau de Fesles |
种类： | Red Wine(红葡萄酒) |
国家： | FR(法国) |
年份： | 2006 |
酒精度： | 13% |
容量： | 750ml |
葡萄品种： | |
参考价格： | 不详 |
Bacio Divino 1993
復活節去了曼谷, 在一家名叫""Zanotti""的義大利餐廳進餐. 這家餐廳據說是""哥哥""張國榮生前愛去的. 食物質素相當高. 我們叫了生牛肉沙拉, Palmer Ham Pizza 和羊架等食物並搭配義大利餐酒, 十分滿意.
說到義大利酒, 我喝的不多, 但總覺得吃義大利菜始終是配義大利酒最合拍.
言歸正传, 日前品嚐了""神之水滴""第九集中出現的一支在加州Napa Valley釀造但具有義大利風味的紅酒:
Bacio Divino 1993 (注: ""神之水滴""中出現的年份是2000年)
此酒以65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Sangiovese, 10% Petite Sirah混合釀成. 一開瓶即聞到混合着新橡木桶, 黑醋栗, 櫻桃及李子的豐富香氣. 此酒口感濃郁, 果味豐富並帶有黑朱古力味. 可能是已夠陳年的關係, 此酒表現出成熟的魅力, 單寧細緻不澀, 在收結時包裹者舌頭, 形成長長的餘韻達兩分鐘. 此酒是近期品嚐中最好的一支紅酒, 個人評分: 95分.
品嚐日期: 25 - 26/03/2008