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瓊瑤漿Gewurztraminer，其歷史遠攝埃及、希臘，而可信的淵源或許開始於義大利北部阿爾卑斯山脈靠近徳國、奧地利邊境的徳語裔地區Alto Adige的村莊 Temeno(Tramin)，是和Traminer葡萄特色相彷彿的表親。葡萄一般是粉紅色，有時候則帶點黃色，有著低酸度的結構。

在涼爽的氣候區才有良好的表現，除了阿爾薩斯歐洲北部如德國、奧地利、匈牙利、羅馬尼亞、捷克甚至烏克蘭皆有種植，而在美國加州涼爽的區域及俄勒岡州和華盛頓州也有好的表現，在南半球的紐西蘭亦要比澳洲為佳。

而且是適合在年輕時候飲用的一款酒。

其家族蠻熱鬧，名字則多數是以Traminer開始或者結束，如Traminer Musqué，Traminer Parfumé， Traminer Aromatique (or Aromatico)，and Rotor Traminer，Gewürztraminer。而Gewürztraminer也被叫作Edeltraube，Rousselet，Savagnin Rosé，Tramini及Traminac。

Savagnin Rosé──

Traminac──

Rotor Traminer──

Traminer Musqué──

Traminer Aromatique──

Aromatico──

Tramini──

來自葡萄品種的香或味道會有一些植物和花的要素（Floral elements），floral花、petal花辦、gardenia枙子花、Rose玫瑰、Tulip鬱金香、Lavender薰衣草、honeysuckle忍冬、Pipal菩提樹、Citrus柑橘屬植物、Orange柳橙、Grapefruit葡萄柚、Citrus peel橘子皮等，水果的風味（fruity）則會有Banana香蕉、lychee荔枝、peach桃、mango芒果、Green apple青蘋果、Passionfruit西番蓮、Mango芒果、Guava番石榴、Tropical fruit熱帶水果。

它另一個主調則是香料（Spice）般的芳香，cloves丁香、nutmeg肉豆蔻、Potpourri乾燥的花瓣、perfume香水、Cologne古龍水、Cold cream雪花膏、Musk麝香等，甚至Ginger薑、White pepper白胡椒等。某些情況下也可能會有wood木頭的味道如oak櫟樹，不過並不通常。

另外也會有礦物質、烯類化學物、柴油、Bacon咸肉等的氣味，晚收成的酒（late harvest）則會有葡萄的味道、honey蜂蜜、cabbage洋白菜、Acacia flowers洋槐花等。

花的要素（Floral elements）：

floral花──

petal花辦──

Rose玫瑰──

gardenia枙子花──

Tulip鬱金香──

Lavender薰衣草（灌木，淡紫色的花）──

honeysuckle忍冬──

Pipal菩提樹──

Citrus柑橘屬植物──

馬刀注：柑、橘在中國早於先秦亦已出現，屈原的詩篇便留下讚美的辭句，至唐朝於江南更是廣泛種植。而甜橙、酸橙、檸檬等則是宋元時期才傳入中國。

Orange柳橙──

Grapefruit葡萄柚──

Citrus peel橘子皮──

水果的風味（fruity）──

lychee荔枝──

馬刀注：原產福建、廣東及四川等地，西漢時傳入中原，因楊貴妃而聲名大噪，唐宋入詩最夥，十九世紀中傳入泰國印度等地，二十世紀傳入歐美，英語荔枝就是中文音譯。

Banana香蕉──

馬刀注：蕉也原產于中國華南，見於典籍則在漢武帝時代，其扶荔宮就種了十二株甘蕉。

peach桃──

馬刀注：桃乃中國古老的水果之一，河北出土的商代遺址就有桃核，《詩經》中也有桃之夭夭之句。後來的變種、人工的駁接、外國品種的混雜，桃的味道大不如小時候鄉下所出啊。

mango芒果──

Green apple青蘋果──

馬刀注：有些奇怪不過卻是事實，在我們常見常吃的水果中，蘋果乃最晚期才傳入中國。蘋果原產於中東土耳其一帶，後來在歐洲普遍種植，十九世紀傳入中國。中國古代的果子也有蘋果屬的，海棠果、沙果、林檎等，日文稱蘋果為“林檎”便來自中國，但是，古代的林檎是一種綿蘋果，與現代蘋果不同。

Passionfruit西番蓮──

Guava番石榴──

Tropical fruit熱帶水果──

香料（Spice）般的芳香──

cloves丁香──

nutmeg肉豆蔻──

Potpourri乾燥的花瓣──

perfume香水──

Cologne古龍水──

Cold cream雪花膏、冷霜──

Musk麝香──

Ginger薑──

White pepper白胡椒──

wood木頭的味道，oak櫟樹──

另外也會有礦物質：

petroleum石油──

diesel柴油機──

terpene烯類化學物──

Bacon咸肉──

cabbage洋白菜──

Acacia flowers洋槐花──

honey蜂蜜──

──或者是如下？

最後一課

──百嘗

阿爾薩斯在歷史上總是作為徳、法兩國間的犧牲品，因為此地擁有良好的地理條件，為礦業、工業的重要生產據點，也是葡萄酒的一個美好的產區。布里亞．薩瓦朗說：“這是歐洲最令人垂涎的地方。”作家都徳家喻戶曉的文章“最後的一堂課”，以生動筆觸將法國人被德國佔領的悲哀刻劃出來，在很多國家被收進中學的課本。於今歐洲已統合為歐盟，現代的阿爾薩斯人不知道是否還能理解前代人對於土地、民族、語言、文化、家國等層次深沉的情感。

法國葡萄酒標的辨識方式關鍵在於產地、出產的村落、酒莊，如果對其中涉及的常識不太了解的話，便很難選擇，特別是它不會標示瓶子裡的酒是用單一品種的葡萄釀造的、還是由多種葡萄混合釀造的，比例又是多少。對飲用者來說這是非常麻煩的事，即使專家也常常頭痛，因為即使同一款的法國酒它每一年的葡萄混合比例也不盡相同。

所以新興產國美國、澳洲等，一開始就刻意採取較為簡易的標示方法，直接以葡萄品種命名它的葡萄酒，並且以嚴格的法律保證瓶中的內容，使飲用者藉由“品種標示系統”立即掌握酒的特性，從而在商業領域掌握了先機，而大行其道。事實上，首度採用這種品種標示手法的就是阿爾薩斯。

阿爾薩斯出名的葡萄品種有雷司令Riesling、麝香Muscat、希瓦纳Sylvaner、灰皮諾Pinot gris、白皮諾Pinot blanc以及瓊瑤漿Gewürztraminer，其歷史遠攝埃及、希臘，而可信的淵源或許開始於義大利北部阿爾卑斯山脈靠近徳國、奧地利邊境的徳語裔地區Alto Adige的村莊 Temeno(Tramin)，是和Traminer葡萄特色相彷彿的表親。Gewürz很多文章經常從德語那邊翻作“辣”或者“辛辣”、“辛烈”，但是更接近和熟悉德國語言、文化的葡萄酒作家譯的也許更準確，就是“香”、“使香”或者“香料”、“加香料”、“更香”。

－－Gewürztraminer D'ALSACE

瓊瑤漿晚收成的甜酒出色，而不甜的也確以辛辣建立了風格，不過奇特的香才是它最與別不同之處。與大多數任何其他白葡萄酒相比，其充分的bodied更強大，口感也更頑固一些，花果味和香料香是它隱含的兩個主味，柳橙、葡萄柚、奇特的荔枝、高雅的玫瑰、乾燥的花瓣、古龍水、雪花膏、甚至薑、礦物味等等都可能會出現。

只有一個問題在瓶子沒打開之前不會解決，那就是你不知道瓶子里的它到底有多甜或者多Dry。

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常去的那个论坛有两个朋友结婚，我充当了一回网上伴娘。婚礼已至深夜，尽职尽责的我深刻体会到了灌水的辛苦。

“去睡觉吧。”

“嗯，过了12点吧。”

“为什么？”

“呵呵，某在迎接生日。”

于是，我得到了一份生日礼物——仅次于Chateau d’Yquem的——Chateau Climens 1986。

说实话，接过这支酒的时候，我只看懂了1986和1er cru，而这已经足以让我兴奋。酒标设计简单而精致，与酒的颜色很相称。非常喜欢。同事紧紧握在手中：“这酒很难找的。大部分的酒不是标Sauternes就是标Barsac，而同时标Sauternes-Barsac非常少。并且这酒只产375ml的。”

对甜酒，以前真的只知道Chateau d’Yquem，百尝将其形容得极其美妙：“霎时舌上仿佛一片花海一下子绽放开来的感觉——舌上的花季。”连Lafite都发出：“绝对是：此酒只应天上有，人生那得几回尝”的感叹，更使我感觉这酒遥不可及。对于遥不可及的东西，我只看看。：）

而现在，我手上这支是仅次于Yquem的。噢，天哪。我知道她是一瓶好酒，可我没想到这么好！George Heritier的品酒记录是：“1986 Chateau Climens Sauternes- Barsac (12 % alc.): One of the most amazing dessert wines I've ever tasted, this rich gold exuded huge apricot/oak/vanilla/ spice flavors and aromas, with an unctuous texture and an endless finish.”OH，endless finish！我已经陶醉了。。。

“这酒可是名声和口感仅次于Chateau d’Yquem 的。”

“唔，感激涕临啊。”

“没找到81年的，只好凑数了。”

“咳，已经受之有愧了！”

仅次于Chateau d’Yquem 的——我已经语无伦次了。。。

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附：

Chateau Climens

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Chateau Climens is one of the Premier Cru properties of Sauternes, as determined in the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac. It is situated in Barsac, close to Chateau Coutet, it's main Barsac rival, and the three deuxième cru Doisy properties. It is the leading property of this Sauternes commune, and in terms of buying and drinking on a regular basis it is for many the leading estate of Sauternes as a whole.

Chateau Climens has a lengthy and well documented history stretching back over 500 years, although viticulture was not undertaken here until the 17th Century. Throughout Climens' early history it was owned by the Roborel family, who oversaw the production of both white and red wines, although obviously today Climens produces no red. In 1802 the family sold the estate to Jean Binaud, and during the 19th Century there were several owners, one of the most useful being the Lacoste family who replanted the vineyards and also saw the estate classified as a Premier Cru. In 1885 the estate came into the hands of the Gounouilhou family. Henri Gounouilhou and his descendants oversaw a golden age for Climens, as the chateau grew not only in size but in reputation, producing wine which in some vintages rivalled d'Yquem. Nevertheless, by 1971 the family had to sell, and so the estate came to Lucien Lurton, head of the Lurton family, who own a number of Bordeaux chateaux including Brane-Cantenac and Durfort-Vivens. Lurton acquired Climens together with Doisy-Dubroca at a time when Sauternes seemed sadly neglected by wine-drinkers who would clamour for red Bordeaux. Things now seem to have changed and Lurton's purchase looks to have been a great investment; recent vintages of Climens have seen the price creeping upwards.

There are 29 ha of vineyards at Climens, in two blocks adjacent to the house, planted entirely to Semillon, vines with an average age of 35 years. The land is a highpoint for Barsac, although it is actually at an elevation of only 20 m. Drainage is good, the soil being sand and gravel over limestone. Yields vary with the vintage, swinging between an incredibly low 9 hl/ha and a huge 25 hl/ha, the latter being in the great 1986 vintage; remember that the methods behind producing Sauternes will always mean yield figures are low when compared with those for dry red Bordeaux. The grapes are harvested in successive tries with careful selection in the vineyard, before a horizontal pressing and fermentation and maturation in separate lots. Chaptalisation may be employed, but rarely. The wine spends up to two years in oak, up to two thirds of which may be new each vintage. Production is typically 3000 cases per annum. The grand vin is Chateau Climens, there is also a second wine Cyprès de Climens. The style of wine is elegant, racy, with great vibrancy, all hallmarks of good Barsac. But Climens has the potential to develop greatly with bottle age, taking on a plump, rich opulence. These are great wines and I have many vintages cellared. (17/8/04)

-----------出自http://www.thewinedoctor.com/bordeaux/climens.shtml

Sauternes & Barsac 1855 Classification

The chateaux of Sauternes were classified, along with those of the Médoc. It was originally drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce for the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris, at the request of Emperor Napoleon III. The Bordeaux négociants already had firmly established league tables, based largely on price (and therefore quality), and this knowledge formed the basis for this particular Bordeaux classification.

Premier Cru Supérieur

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau d'Yquem

Premiers Crus

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Climens

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Clos Haut-Peyraguey

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Coutet

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Guiraud

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Rabaud-Promis

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Rieussec

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Suduiraut

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau La Tour-Blanche

Deuxièmes Crus

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau d'Arche

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Broustet

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Caillou

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Doisy-Daëne

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Doisy-Dubroca

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Doisy-Védrines

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Filhot

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Lamothe

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Lamothe-Guignard

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau de Malle

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau de Myrat

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Nairac

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Romer du Hayot

·                                                                                                                                                                                                            Chateau Suau

----出自http://www.thewinedoctor.com/regionalguides/bordeauxclassificationssauternes.shtml

当第一次看到这个计算公式的时候 ,我立刻对它的真实性产生了疑问.

我向葡萄酒酿造原理的老师coufuront 提出了疑问.

很显然这个公式是错误的,我们不能这样来计算一款酒的柔顺指数.

在其中,个单位除了数量以外,我们还要考虑它的质量,已经各单位在不同质量下

的表现形式和结果.

比如,单宁的数量相同,质量不同.在酒入口以后的表现截然不同.同理,酸也一样.

再比如酒里的甘油有多少, 很明显甘油对酒的柔顺度是有很大影响的 .这样一个公式

显得太简单 草率.

希望大家来共同讨论这个话题.

带着杯子旅行

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阿尔撒斯-传说中的 Alsace grand cru (排除grand noble) 究竟如何

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